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Berat, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in , comprises a unique style of architecture with influences from several civilizations that have managed to coexist for centuries throughout the history.

Like many cities in Albania, Berat comprises an old fortified city filled with churches and mosques painted with grandiose wealth of visible murals and frescos.

Berat is one of the main cultural centres of the country. Berat lies on the right bank of the river Osum , a short distance from the point where it is joined by the Molisht river.

The old city centre consists of three parts: Kalaja on the castle hill , Mangalem at the foot of the castle hill and Gorica on the left bank of the Osum.

It has a wealth of beautiful buildings of high architectural and historical interest. The pine forests above the city, on the slopes of the towering Tomorr mountains, provide a backdrop of appropriate grandeur.

The Osumi river has cut a metre deep gorge through the limestone rock on the west side of the valley to form a precipitous natural fortress, around which the town was built on several river terraces.

According to an Albanian legend, the Tomorr mountain was originally a giant, who fought with another giant mountain called Shpirag over a young woman.

They killed each other and the girl drowned in her tears, which then became the Osum river. Mount Shpirag , named after the second giant, is on the left bank of the gorge, above the district of Gorica.

The earliest recorded inhabitants of the city 6th century BC were the ancient Ilyrian tribe of the Dassaretae or Dexarioi, the northernmost subgroup of the Chaonians , and the region was known as Dessaretis after them.

The town became part of the unstable frontier of the Byzantine Empire following the fall of the western Roman Empire and, along with much of the rest of the Balkan peninsula , it suffered from repeated invasions by Slavs.

During the Roman and early Byzantine period, the city was known as Pulcheriopolis. The town became one of the most important towns in the Bulgarian region Kutmichevitsa.

The Bulgarian governor Elemag surrendered the city to the emperor Basil II in , and the city remained in Byzantine hands until the Second Bulgarian Empire retook the city in during the rule of Kaloyan.

In March a relief force from Constantinople under the command of Michael Tarchaneiotes was able to drive off the besieging Sicilian army.

In Albanians from Epirus Nova invaded the area of Berat and appeared in Epirus for the first time, [19] [20] while in or maybe the town passed to the Serbian Empire.

In Berat was captured by the Ottomans, before the Battle of Savra. According to some sources, the Ottomans probably remained in Berat for some time with intention to use it as foothold to capture Valona.

During the early period of Ottoman rule, Berat fell into severe decline. By the end of the 16th century it had only houses.

However, it began to recover by the 17th century and became a major craft centre specializing in wood carving. During the first part of the sixteenth century, Berat was a Christian city and did not contain any Muslim households.

From onward, Berat became a Muslim majority city and of its 30 neighbourhoods, 19 were populated by Muslims. In the 18th century, Berat was one of the most important Albanian cities during the Ottoman period.

In , Berat became a sanjak in Yannina Yanya vilayet. A Greek school was operating in the city already from Christian merchants in Berat supported the Albanian movement.

During the Second World War , Jews were concealed in the homes and basements of 60 families from the Muslim and Christian communities in Berat.

In the modern period, a Romani community numbering lives in Berat and its outskirts whereas others in a few nearby villages, at times living in difficult economic circumstances with some seasonally migrating to Greece for work.

By the 18th century the economy and society of Berat was closely connected to the city's craft guilds partly related to various tax exemptions that existed since the late Middle Ages.

By there were twenty-two guilds, the most important of which were the tanners', the cobblers' and other leather-working guilds.

Other guilds included metal-working, silver-smithing and silk-making ones. The coexistence of religious and cultural communities over several centuries, beginning in the 4th century BC into the 18th century is apparent in Berat.

The town also bears testimony to the architectural excellence of traditional Balkan housing construction, which date to the late 18th and the 19th centuries.

Some of the landmarks of that historical period could be seen in the Berat Castle, churches of the Byzantine era such as the Church of St. Berat Castle is built on a rocky hill on the right bank of the river Osum and is accessible only from the south.

After being burned down by the Romans in BC the walls were strengthened in the 5th century under Byzantine Emperor Theodosius II , and were rebuilt during the 6th century under the Emperor Justinian I and again in the 13th century under the Despot of Epirus, Michael Komnenos Doukas , cousin of the Byzantine Emperor.

The main entrance, on the north side, is defended by a fortified courtyard and there are three smaller entrances. The fortress of Berat in its present state, even though considerably damaged, remains a magnificent sight.

The surface that it encompasses made it possible to house a considerable portion of the town's inhabitants. The buildings inside the fortress were built during the 13th century and because of their characteristic architecture are preserved as cultural monuments.

The population of the fortress was Christian, and it had about 20 churches most built during the 13th century and only one mosque, for the use of the Muslim garrison, of which there survives only a few ruins and the base of the minaret.

The churches of the fortress have been damaged through the years and only some remain. The Church of St. In a small tree - planted square, on a hillside inside the walls of the fortress, stands the 14th century Church of the Holy Trinity.

It is built in the form of a cross and has Byzantine murals. Outside the ramparts is the Church of St. This church is reached by a steep but perfectly safe path.

Near the entrance, after a guardhouse, is the little Church of St. Theodore Shen Todher , which have wall paintings by Onufri himself. The most interesting is the cathedral of St.

Nicholas, which has been well restored and is now a museum dedicated to Onufri. Onufri was the greatest of the 16th century painters in Albania.

Not only was he a master of the techniques of fresco and icons, but he was the first to introduce a new colour in painting, shiny red, which the French called "Onufri's Red".

In addition, Onufri introduced a certain realism and a degree of individuality in facial expression. The first inscription recording Onufri's name was found in , in the Shelqan church.

Onufri's style in painting was inherited by his son, Nikolla Nicholas , though not so successful as his father.

In Onufri's museum can be found works of Onufri, his son, Nikolla and other painters'. There are also numbers of icons and some fine examples of religious silversmith's work sacred vessels, icon casings, covers of Gospel books, etc.

Berat Gospels, which date from the 4th century, are copies the originals are preserved in the National Archives in Tirana. The church itself has a magnificent iconostasis of carved wood, with two very fine icons of Christ and the Virgin Mary.

The bishop's throne and the pulpit are also of considerable quality. Near the street running down from the fortress is the Bachelors' Mosque Xhami e Beqareve , built in This has a handsome portico and an interesting external decoration of flowers, plants, houses, etc.

The 'Bachelors' were the young shop-assistants in practice generally unmarried , whom the merchants in Berat used as their own private militia. It is museum in the modern period.

The Lead Mosque Xhamia e Plumbit , built in and so called from the covering of its cupola. This mosque is the centre of the town. The Halveti Tekke Teqe e Helvetive is thought to have been built in the 15th century.

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